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Type A-2 Page
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Type A-2 Jacket DescriptionTwo snap-flap patch pockets, a shirt style collar, epaulets, and knit cuffs and waistband are about all it takes to describe the salient characteristics in the simple but distinctive A-2 jacket. There is, as we will see, much more to it than that. LeatherWhile the official specification called for horsehide, and while most jackets probably were so made, there was a notable fraction of A-2's made of goatskin and perhaps other hides such as steer. Consultation with a number of independent leather scientists (not tanners or sales people) resulted in learning that once the hides have been processed it is virtually impossible to tell the difference between horse and steer; it can't be done visually, and a positive ID might well require expensive DNA testing. The differences in the grain of goatskin, by comparison, are relatively easy to discern from the other hides. As well, goatskin is a bit more resilient and has tended to hold up better over the years. A-2 color variations abound, even from the same contractor. While the spec called for a seal brown shade, it is clear that this was open to broad interpretation. Many jackets tended more toward the classic Army russet brown which itself had a broad range of shades and was found on shoes, cap visors, chin straps, trim on sheepskin clothing, etc. Overall, jackets can be seen to vary from a light almost tan color to a dark chocolate shade. There would appear to be no single correct or definitive color for an A-2 and yet the colors seen on originals are clearly distinguishable from most modern copies. The reasons for this are most likely related to dyes and tanning techniques. An interesting and little known fact is that it is not unusual to find jackets which were re-dyed a darker shade of brown, apparently done prior to re-issue to another owner. The original color shade can often be seen inside the pockets. Shell ConstructionThe basic components of the leather shell of an A-2 jacket consist of one piece of leather for the back, one piece for each of the left and right front panels, and two pieces for each sleeve running the length of the sleeve. Wartime commercial versions (i.e., not government contract) and many post-war replicas sometimes use additional pieces for the back and sleeves. One other characteristic which is often misrepresented by poorer replicas is the point of attachment of the back to the front pieces at the shoulder. Some replicas place this seam too far forward on top of the shoulder. Since the back edge of the epaulets is coincident with this seam, this construction often places the epaulets not on top of the shoulder, as with an authentic A-2, but falling forward off of the shoulder. This simply looks wrong if not altogether comical. Some original A-2 makers including Doniger, Monarch, Spiewak, United Sheeplined, and the maker of the 23383 contract, did place the top shoulder seam centrally on top of the shoulder but also centered under the epaulets. This configuration does not alter the location or appearance of the epaulet compared to the more common configuration described above. Another construction variation found among some makers, including Doniger, Monarch, Spiewak, Star, and the maker of the 23383 contract, is a rotated inset sleeve. While in most cases, one of the sleeve seams is aligned with, and appears to be a continuation of, the body side seam, these others have the sleeve seam rotated forward of the body side seam by an inch or two. Variations in thread and stitching are also seen. Some thread used is essentially brown to match the jacket, but it is not uncommon for O.D. (olive drab) thread, typically used for O.D. clothing or webbing, to be used on A-2 jackets. The stitching itself, if quantified in stitches per inch, is seen to vary. Eight stitches per inch gives a very nice, clean, high-quality look, but it is clear that workmanship if not cost saving measures sometimes contributed to more sparse needlework. It is also worth noting that the thread material was all cotton. The seams are top-stitched in most places and this detail is seen to vary insofar as how close the stitching is placed to the joint. This may or may not be a function of contractor but, for example, jackets made by Bronco, Doniger, and the maker of the 23383 contract have the top-stitching placed further from the joint than typical. Other jackets exhibit a fine bead with all their seams having the top-stitching placed very close to the joint. Image examples:
Collar Construction and AttachmentThe collar was usually composed of one piece of leather for the top side while the under side was made from two halves sewn together in the center at the back of the neck. Occasionally, the top side is similarly made of two pieces. On some jackets the collar is attached to the jacket with an intervening leather strip called a collar stand, as is found on a typical dress shirt. Presumably because this required extra effort and materials, most jackets have the collar attached directly. Some contractors may have used one method exclusively while others may have transitioned at some point in time. Rough Wear and Perry, for example, appear to have used the collar stand for all of their jackets. Other makers using collar stands include early Aero, Cooper, early Dubow, Werber, and, with some odd variations, the maker of the 23383 contract. The shape of the collar points also show a great deal of variation and often is a distinguishing characteristic of particular contractors. Some makers' jackets such as Dubow, Doniger, and Monarch, exhibit comparatively long and pointed collars. Others collar points may be more rounded, such as Perry, or are perhaps simply average in appearance. Image examples:
PocketsPockets are another entity which often reflect differences per contractor, particularly with regard to the cut of the flaps. Some flaps may be more rounded, others more pointed, some with a more scalloped shape and others a with a simpler angular shape. This is not to say that variations did not exist within a single contractor, for they did exist, even on the same jacket. It seems that getting the same shape every time was not so simple a task. The pockets themselves usually show rounded bottom corners although those made by Bronco and United Sheeplined, for example, are cut at a beveled angle. Other, less apparent, pocket variations seen among makers include the size and shape of reinforcement stitching placed at the top corners of the pocket patch, and the application of leather reinforcement for the back of the snap inside the pocket patch. Most reinforcement stitching is triangular, with some being wider and some narrower. Others may use a box shape or, sometimes, no particular reinforcement at all. The leather snap reinforcements are often a rounded tongue which is simply a folded over extension of the pocket patch, while others may be a rectangular tab of leather which is completely separate from the pocket patch. Small Size/Lot labels were often sewn into pockets, usually either under the flap or onto the top inside edge of the patch. Sometimes these were actually marked with the size or other information, but many times they are found to be unmarked. One characteristic that A-2 pockets definitely did not have was the side-entry or "hand-warmer" secondary pockets. This is strictly a commercial embellishment. Another characteristic which is often ignored in replicas is the placement of the pockets relative to the zipper. Authentic A-2's have a sizable spacing between the zipper or center of the jacket and the edge of the pocket, essentially placing the pocket toward the wearer's side. Many replicas place the pockets much too close to the center and they just look wrong. Also contrary to many of the much less authentic jacket copies is that the A-2 has only the two outside patch pockets and has no inside pockets of any kind. Image examples: note also the differences in pocket flap shape.
EpauletsShoulder straps, or epaulets, adorn each A-2 and often carried the wearer's rank insignia either painted on directly, or as a separate sewn-on leather patch, or simply as pinned-on metal insignia. Epaulets sometimes show characteristics attributable to the contractor, but these may also be subject to workmanship. Generally, they consist of two strips of leather sewn together with a twin row of stitching on each side, where the distance between these rows is seen as a typical variation. The width of the epaulet at the neck attachment is usually slightly narrower than the width at the shoulder attachment. The epaulets are then box-stitched at each end to secure them to the jacket. The box-stitching is also a source of variation, perhaps to some extent by contractor, in that the "box" may be rather square or more oblong, and in that the box may be contained within the twin-stitching or it may span the full width of the strap. Image examples:
LiningA-2 linings appear to have transitioned from silk in the early years, per original specification, to cotton later on. A letter from the Materiel Division of Wright Field, dated 7 January 1939, states that the use of silk in flying jackets had been discontinued "as its procurement was found not to be feasible." The letter does not say when this happened, but it makes it clear that the vast majority of vintage A-2 jackets we encounter will not have silk lining. The material is rather thin and light and is of a plain weave. Lining colors, at least for the cotton variety, run from a reddish or rusty brown to a light brown to an almost tan or mustardy color, and are often distinct to the manufacturer. Image examples:
KnitsWool knitting was used for the sleeve wristlets as well as the waistband. These were essentially brown like the jacket, but again there were variations in shade from dark to medium brown to an almost reddish hue as typical of many Aero Leather jackets. Wristlets have a double weave, looser on the top half (toward the sleeve attachment) and tighter toward the bottom (end). Image examples: Spec LabelThe woven specification label sewn into each jacket generally followed a predictable format. The type was listed (A-2) followed by the drawing number (30-1415), the contract or order number, the manufacturer, and the proclamation that the jacket was Property, Air Force, U.S. Army. The size appears on a small and separate label sewn at the bottom edge of the main label. An exception to this is the Dubow 27798 contract label in which the size is woven directly into the main label. In some cases there is no manufacturer name on the label. The property notice seems to have been an added requirement since many jackets, presumably of pre-war or early war vintage, do not bear the notice. There are also instances, apparently interim, where a second label with the property notice was sewn together with one of the early labels, such as the Dubow 23379 and Rough Wear 23380 contracts. Image examples:
Leather HangerA strip of leather was sewn into the neck above the spec label to be used as a hanger. While the method of attachment to the jacket appears most often to be box-stitching at each end, there are also examples of bar-tacking. Image examples:
HardwareZippers were generally made of steel or brass and may have been nickel plated. Essentially, some were white metal and some were yellow metal. Typical zipper suppliers were Talon, Crown, Conmar, and Kwik. Talon zips appear to have been the predominant brand used, and they can be seen in a small number of variations which appear to be changes over time, judging from their association with A-2 contracts and other gear.
The Crown zipper is noteworthy in that the teeth were angled (referred to by Crown as "chevron" teeth, according to an advertisement) and the metal puller was hinged with a small spring to keep it down flat. This kept the zipper from sliding since there was a small tooth on the puller which locked between two teeth on the tape. Crown zips on A-2's are seen in a shiny plated version and less often in a dull metal version. Conmar zips on A-2 jackets were of the style with the long puller and a wide oval cutout at the bottom. They are found in both brass and white metal. Kwik brand zippers appear to have been the least used in A-2s but can be found most regularly on Cable Raincoat Co. jackets. A small construction variation regarding zippers is the application of reinforcement stitching at the bottom attachment of the zipper at the waist. This is not always applied, but when it is, it typically exists of two triangular stitch lines. One line appears next to the stopper box and is sewn through the adjacent leather tab, while the other line appears on the side of the zipper under the wind flap and is sewn through the waist knitting next to the leather tab on that side. Collar and pocket snaps were one of two main types, either a small ball stud type snap or a larger ring type snap. Two sizes of ring snaps are seen. The male half of the collar snap on the inside of the jacket is usually found to be riveted through the lining, with its cap covered with the lining material. But on occasion the snap back is not covered or may not be riveted through the lining at all. United Car and Rau were two common snap manufacturers. There is a two-piece riveted throat clasp attached at the collar. The hook and rivets are usually both of white metal, although there are examples of black anodized rivets. Finally, under each armpit are found two metal venting grommets, usually painted brown. Image examples:
Stamps and Other AdditionsA-2 jacket linings are stamped with an inspector's mark composed of the letters AN along with an inspector's number, all contained within a circle. This stamp is often, but not exclusively, placed near the spec label, but does not appear in all jackets. The size of the AN stamp circle is commonly 5/8-inch, but a smaller version of 5/16-inch is also seen. The Army Air Corps wing and star insignia is also seen to appear in various forms. It can be found as a larger stamp on the lining, as a smaller stamp or decal on the inside face of the zipper wind flap, or as a full color transfer on the left shoulder. The application of this insignia on clothing and other flying equipment was specified in Technical Order No. 13-1-12, dated February 1, 1944. Insignia were then applied both to new items and to used items, such as many A-2 jackets, which were either reissued or refurbished. Strips of leather to be used for nameplates were supplied and issued. They were, according to the Class 13 Catalog, 4 inches long and 5/8-inch in height. It is evident, however, that a great deal of A-2 nameplates were custom made and varied greatly in size and in how the name was applied. Personal embellishments were later made including the addition of leather name plates, rank insignia, squadron and/or group insignia, Air Corps or numbered Air Force shoulder insignia, and painting of nose art or other distinctive design usually found on the back of the jacket. Image examples:
Sizing and FitUnlike the loose-fitting trend of more recent clothing, the original A-2 was a rather trim jacket in both the torso and sleeves. It is also the case that, for instance, a wartime A-2 size 42 may be closer to a modern day size 40 and such differences may be even greater. An important aspect of how an A-2 looks is how it hugs its wearer. Loose and baggy A-2 replicas just do not make muster.
Continue to the next page for Details, Part 2, Jackets by Manufacturer, Page 1.
Copyright © 1995-2008 Marc D. Weinshenker. All rights reserved. |
